14.8.13

Cold borscht - beetroot extravaganza

     I have never been the biggest fan of winter. Frost is not my favorite atmosphere disaster of all times. Personally, I believe snow should only appear in selected mountain chains. I hate when I’m cold, when I’m forced to wear ten thousands kilograms of clothes and I can’t drive… In the country I was born and raised in, white flakes are always a huge surprise for the adequate services god dammit.

     Never the less, that’s why even when  it’s over +40C/104F… I will survive. Besides, spring and summer, ok, early autumn too, let’s be fair, give us all the amazing fruits and vegetables! They are fresh, there are tons of them and they’re cheap – at least comparing to what I have to pay for some poor imitations of veges in the winter! Some artificial creatures made of water and antibiotics, grown in glasshouses of Netherlands or other Spain.

     Perhaps I’m not a soup person, I like solid food, not just liquid, unless it contains alcohol, however my grandma Pélagie, an extraordinary woman, was a world champion in that field of culinary art. I actually stopped eating soups after she was called in to the heaven’s kitchen, to prepare meals for Jesus and his holy friends and family…

     There is one soup I especially enjoy while we have the Sahara’s heat over in Poland – ‘chłodnik’! It’s a clod borsch and according to Wikipedia, it’s served in many different culinary traditions, including Belarusian (Chaładnik, Хaлaднiк), Latvian (Aukstā zupa), Lithuanian (Šaltibarščiai), Polish (Chłodnik, Chłodnik litewski), Russian (Свекольник) and Ukrainian (Kholodnyk, Холодник)!Blimey, that’s a lot of soup!

     My personal success and contribution towards cultivation of local culinary heritage, was converting my friends to actually like it, and even prepare it later in their haciendas! God dammit I’m good.



     Now, there’s no need for you to travel to Belarus to cook it, all you need is love and:

·        young beetroots with leafy tops – few of them 4-6 – depending how big they are – the younger, the better
·        05l/1pint of vegetable stock
·        one spoon of vinegar/lemon juice + a pinch of sugar – add it to stock while cooking beetroots – this will keep the color and the color my Dear is the key here
·        sour cream 12%-18%, soured milk, kefir, or yogurt – I mix them all, it’s better that way – you want to get 1l/2pints to 1,5l/3pints of it together, I normally go (or dig in the fridge) for  3 different kinds - each 0,5l/1pint
·        bunch (or two) of chives and dill – I like when there’s more of it
·        bunch of radishes
·        garlic – I use 4 big gloves, because I like it, and I know that fresh parsley kills all the odor – but use as many as you like, at the end of the day, I’m not the one who’ll taste it
·        3-4 English cucumbers – not to long/big though
·        sea salt and freshly grounded black (should I write ‘Afro-American’?) pepper
·        eggs (not balls) – boiled - one per portion – to serve



     First of all, put some latex gloves on sunshine – yes, I know how it sounds, hold your horses, it’s only to keep your hands clean while dealing with beetroots. After washing them – also leafy tops and stems – grate the beetroots on the large slot. You can also chop them, but it can be a messy… we like it simple! Chop what is left. Use only the nice and fresh leafs, all the ugly ones give to pigs or other pets you have at close hand, they’ll love it.

     Bring the stock to boil, add vinegar/lemon juice and sugar – that’s crucial, otherwise beetroots will lose all the color and your ‘chłodnik’ will be greyisho-dark-olivy-green. Trust me, you don’t want that on your plate. First add grated beetroots and chopped stems, cook for few minutes, then add leafs and cook for further 2-3 minutes, not too long, we don’t want to have puree. Take off and cool down. It can’t be hot while adding to dairy products, otherwise it will all go wrong. And I ain’t mean ‘girls/boys gone wild’ kind of thing, but you will get all curdled, even your pig won’t eat it.

     Now, take the cucumbers, peel them and cut in half lengthwise. I always get rid of seeds – they’re just to watery. There is a very simple way to do it. Find somewhere small spoon and literally scrape the center out. You don’t have to chuck it away. Take a blender, put couple of ice cubes, cucumber seeds, mint leafs, lemon juice, watermelon (optional) and a lot of vodka, you deserve it god dammit, it’s not only refreshing, but also healthy.



     While you’re still sober, you can cut the cucumbers into small dice, and place in a large bowl. Always take larger blow or pot you think you may need. Julia Child taught me that, and it’s always true! Grate radishes also on larger slot and add to the bowl.  Yes, you can chop them, but it’s like counting Polish ‘tourists’ in Egypt – way too much work. I also grate garlic on the smallest slot, I’m too lazy to use the squeezer and later deal with all the bits in it, while washing up.

     Last, but not least, chop well the dill and chaves – you can live some for garnish. Mix all with sour cream , soured milk, kefir, yogurt or whatever you’ve managed to conquer in you shop or fridge. If your beetroots & Co. (with the stock it was cooked in) is cold, add it too. Now it’s time for seasoning. Please taste it before and during adding the salt. With grounded black pepper you know yours and your family/friends limits. My grandma would add crawfish flesh… worth trying, be like Alexis Carrington, give yourself a drop (or seven) of luxury.

     Put it all it in the fridge for few hours, it’s best when served really cold in a hot afternoon, or even morning – beetroots are good for hangover, as well as yoghurts – and have yourself another glass of cucumber cocktail…


     Before serving, boil the eggs in salted water  - this prevents the eggshell to brake. 10 minutes when put in boiling water, 4 minutes when starting in cold, counting from the moment, water will start boiling.  When ready, put them in cold water to cool down, it also makes it easy to peel them. Serve cold borsch in deep plates or bowls, or even jars, with quarters of eggs on it. Voilà! Bon appétit!





No comments:

Post a Comment